If you had a week in Paris

[Morris Zapp]

And you had already hit all the major tourist attractions in previous visits, how would you spend your time?
I am going to a conference in Paris this fall and taking my husband to make up for our sucky 25th anniversary celebration during civic. 2 day conference and 4 or so sightseeing days. Also any suggestions for things my non French speaking,not very adventurous spouse could do while I conference? His plan is to "walk around and eat things" not that there's anything wrong with that . ..

[dismalist]

"walk around and eat things"

is something I've done many times in Paris. Do take a guide book, though. It's an excellent idea!

Best of fun. :-)

[mamselle]

Hmmmm....Quatre jours a Paris?

   Sounds like a film....(oh, wait, see Julie D's film, <<Deux jours a Paris>> for fun...)

With caveats that I haven't been there since Dec. 2020 (I know, I was sooo lucky to squeak in just before things closed down) so I don't know what's "still there" in the commercial sector, or even some of the private/public museum sites....I have made almost annual visits since 1996, and can think of a number of things, but you'll need to research them all because, Covid.

I'm just going to deal in generalities here; if something sounds good, I can say more.

So, three questions:

  1) How mobile is he (lots of subways don't have escalators, so lots of stairs--but walking 'up top' is more fun, in my opinion, you see more.)
      And is he OK with taking buses or subways further out of town, say, Versailles, or does he like to stay within the Metro map range of town?

  2) What has he already seen that he liked? Would like to see more of? Never wants to see again?

  3) Does he favor museums, churches, out-of-the-way bookstores (whether or not he speaks French, they can still be fun), sports, or sidewalk fairs?


Otherwise:

1. I would plan my days by going to a different arrondissement (region of the city) and spending the whole day in just that one place. Some have more to offer, so here are the five I'd recommend (in case a couple days spill over or he ends up with plans of his own):

a) 6e: (i.e., Sixth arrondissement, everyone says, "le sixieme")
Near the Hotel de Paris, the "city hall," basically. In winter there's an ice rink in front, the rest of the year there are usually a couple of pretty good accordionists in the area. This is near the Marais (originally a swamp) that at one time housed the outdoor market, "Les Halles," and there is still a lot of interesting commercial activity, including a longstanding family tea shop that smells heavenly when you enter and sticks with you long after you leave.

Two blocks away, a block or two from the Seine, is the Holocaust Museum, which I've never seen, but I understand is well-curated; the Rue des Barres has a couple of very old (i.e., 15th c. or earlier) walkways nearby, too.

The tower (all that remains) of St-Jacques and the Eglise St.-Merry are to the NW; for anyone with an interest in things liturgical, a conventual group at St. Gervais sings the Office, which anyone can attend (quietly); another block away is the Fountaine Stravinsky, a wacky fountain with rotating sculptures, properly outrageous, and the site of the 2009 CHE Old Forum Meetup (9 folks were in the area at the time!).

There are several decent little brasseries with outdoor tables near the fountain, and if the weather allows, that's a good spot for eating either breakfast or lunch; the Centre Pompidou is also nearby, with many good spots for buying hats, scarves, etc. surrounding it (I get those for gifts to take home--the scarves and ties--because they're usually eye-catching, and not very expensive, and take almost no room in a suitcase--and me--because I like hats, and France is the last place to have really full-cut Carnaby caps; not even London has them anymore, really.)

Further down to on Rue de Rivoli to the east are more cafes, the Baroque church, St. Paul's, and going down the Rue St. Paul towards the river again, is the Museum of Magic. Between the Hotel de Ville and the Musee de Magique, I forgot, there's the Maison Europeenne de la Photographie, whih I've also never visited but may be of interest.

Go back up to Rivoli, and keep walking east, the Hotel de Sully and its Jardin are near the Place ds Vosges, a large park, and another good place to eat in (I'd get a <<croque m'sieu>> and frites to go, and sit in the park and eat lunch there, having had my breakfast croissant near the fountain.

Victor Hugo's house, the outlet of the Canal St.-Martin, and the Bastille are further east, after those I'd turn back and walk west to the north and parallel to Rivoli. The Migneret Rose Garden and the Carnavalet (History of Paris) museum aren't always stunning, but are worth a glance, and they're on the way to the Musee Picasso, which, while smallish, is nearly always stunning.

From there, either walk (my preference, again, just be careful about directional turns on the streets there, the angles can be confusing) or take the Metro to Place de la Republique (one of my favorite places, literally; I usually stay at a hostel nearby).

There is/was(used to be) a WinterGarten cabaret show space near there, don't know if it's open now or not; there are many, many good restaurants surrounding the center area, which has been imaginatively re-designed lately, including a skateboard park that (when I was there last) attracts some amazing skateboarders.

This is where you meet your party for dinner--there are several American-like places, but many others of other extractions (Italian, Thai, Japanese, Turkish) serve moules/frites (interthreaduality); biftek/frites; many different rice and vegetable and meat offerings, etc.

The subway downstairs links to several lines so getting back to wherever you're staying shouldn't be too hard.

That's your first day.

Days to follow might include.
   b. Sorbonne/Moufftard/Ste. Genevieve/Pantheon/Shakespeares/Institut du monde arabe/Ile de la Cite (end with ice cream on Ile St.-Louis) area;
   c. Quai d'Orsay/Rodin sculpture garden; cross Pont Augustin to Petit Palais, Rue Voltaire/old Bib. Nat., Bourse, Blvd. Haussmann shops, Opera, etc.
   d. Trocadero/Textiles museum, town fair, across from the Eiffel Tower (walk the bridge) and over to the 7e/Champs de Mars, Invalides
   e. Rue de Vaugirard/Dominican House, Montparnasse (writers' homes), "English shops," cool views, you can just spend a day walking it.
   f.  Abbesses/Pigalle/Montmartre (walk up the whole way, seeing things as you go, or take the tram up and walk down)

2. Further out:

   g. St.-Denis, north of town, and if you're into sports, the Pershing Stadium is a bit further out, make it a day trip there and eat back at the
      St. Denis area again (have your party join you there) before returning to your hotel.   
   h. Versailles
   i. Chartres
   i. Sens (my favorite, 1 hour out of Paris and sooooo much to see and do)...

Main thing--if you like seeing plein-aire markets, each of these areas has one on a particular day of the week. You could plan each visit to be on the day its market runs (of course, you will run into some of the same marchands, because they serve the rota of the markets daily)

If you really want a plan, I use G'Maps and do my own walking plans all the time. Pick four or five and I'd be glad to oblige...

;--}

OK, I have to start a project...gotta stop now, more later.

M.

[mahagonny]

Bring more money that you think you need. We were there years ago and had a chance to hear Kenny Clarke in person, but the admission price was too steep. Of course, he's gone now.

[mamselle]

Right, many things are tres cher. Also be SURE to have backup credit cards, AmEx travelers checks, etc., in different places (luggage, purse, etc.)

Theft and loss by accident are expensive and no fun (Ms. Sadder-but-wiser, here).

But that's why I stay in youth hostels (a friend rents herself a small apartment, same idea) and cook or pack most of my meals. I only buy lunch once or twice, the rest of the time I make my own sandwiches or have bread and cheese with me (or buy small amounts at the fresh air market stands) and always carry an 11-oz thermos of tea (I'm still using one I bought in a Prix-unique in Strasbourg 10 years or more ago.)

I also mostly walk to save money on the Metro, I can make a carnet of 10 tickets last a week by walking nearly everywhere and only using it to go home on at night.

And most of the places I visit (libraries, museums, etc) aren't high-ticket items, and I take trains like everyone else,  rather than fly, from one town/country to another.

But it sounds as if they might be on a bit higher budget limit, and that's cool, too.

More lobster bisque and saumon aux amands to be enjoyed!

M.

[RatGuy]

About 10 years ago, I took an undergraduate class to France for about three weeks. The other instructor and I had a nightly respite at a cafe along the river -- according to Google Maps, its not the same cafe anymore, but looks more or less the same from the outside. If it were me, I'd spend some time there. Probably wouldn't mean as much to you though. Ditto the weekend excursion to Montrichard and Bourre -- we rented bikes and a bedroom at an artist's studio in Ponletvoy. We just biked around and ate things, and visited some pretty cool limestone caverns.

[ciao_yall]

And you had already hit all the major tourist attractions in previous visits, how would you spend your time?
I am going to a conference in Paris this fall and taking my husband to make up for our sucky 25th anniversary celebration during civic. 2 day conference and 4 or so sightseeing days. Also any suggestions for things my non French speaking,not very adventurous spouse could do while I conference? His plan is to "walk around and eat things" not that there's anything wrong with that . ..

Sounds like a plan to me!

Our first trip to Paris my husband, a landscape architect by training, took pictures of all sorts of interesting public works. Drain grates, that sort of thing. I think the film developer (it was that long ago) thought he kept dropping the camera!

[Morris Zapp]

Thanks, guys.  The idea of taking a day and visiting a different neighborhood each day sounds awesome, and the idea of seeing where famous authors lived.  These were the kinds of activities I was thinking about.  I also read about some smaller more obscure museums -- like a textile and East Asian museum and a museum of contemporary art that's not the Pompidou.  I'm actually thinking it would be fun to wander through some Parisian department stores, and there's one that has a rooftop cafe.  I think my husband could be persuaded to wander around the Middle Eastern section of town and eat different things if it were accessible by metro.  Hoping somebody might have some hidden gems -- things that people often don't get to in their first tourist visit, but would definitely do if they had more time. 

[cathwen]

Check out concerts held in small(ish) venues.  When my husband and I were last there, we attended a wonderful concert in the Sainte-Chapelle (which is gorgeous, a little jewel box of Gothic architecture). 

Tourist offices sponsor all kinds of day trips with English-speaking guides.  This might be a good way to see Versailles, if using the metro seems daunting. 

If your husband just wants to stroll around, the gardens—the Jardin des Plantes and the Jardin du Luxembourg—are great for doing just that, and sitting on a bench and watching the people.

I haven't been to Paris for ages—the last time my husband and I were in France, we stuck to the provinces.  If you can get out of Paris, Strasbourg is a lovely city, as well as Reims, the capital of the Champagne area (tour the caves—the champagne cellars!).  The Loire Valley, with its châteaux, is exquisite.

Do try to speak at least some minimal French, even if just greetings and formulaic speech.  A little goes a long way in fostering good will.

Have a great trip!

[marshwiggle]

I don't believe they've been mentioned yet, but guided walking tours are available in lots of cities, and are really great. We did one in Montmartre. They tend to start at Metro stops, so they're easy to get to. Some places also have ones at night, with ghost stories and things of that nature.

They're usually not very expensive, and you find out about little pubs, cafes, etc. along the way since the guides tend to be long-time residents of the area.

[apl68]

I was BORN in Paris...Arkansas.

My main experience of Paris, France is watching the 1960s movie Is Paris Burning on DVD.

[memyself]

If you are at the Jardin des Plantes, check out the Mosquée de Paris nearby. It's a fabulous space. And i think there's a café in the complex.

If at Bastille, near the subway station, check out the Port de l'Arsenal, with its little boats. You can sneak down there and under the bridge, connect to the river bank. The river banks on the left bank are also very walkable.

A couple blocks away from Bastille, past the Opéra, you can try the Promenade plantée/Coulée verte. The old Bastille-Vincennes train line was repurposed into a long, narrow, sometimes elevated, sometimes briefly underground park that goes all the way to the edge of the city to the east. A nice place to take the making of a picnic. Lots of interesting sections to it. (11 and 12 arrondissements)

[clean]

There are plenty of things to do in Paris... no matter which one you pick!

Paris, Idaho.
Paris, Texas.
Paris, Arkansas.
Paris, Missouri.
Paris, Grant County, Wisconsin.
Paris, Kenosha County, Wisconsin. ...
Paris, Illinois.


You could also visit
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[Larimar]

I spent a month in Paris while I was in grad school, and a couple of places I thought were particularly awesome were the Musee D'Orsay and the Madeleine cathedral. I did go to the Louvre and see La Jaconde, but the room was so crowded that I was almost too far back to see it.

[Tee_Bee]

Oh, wow. If I had a week in Paris I'd go to Shakespeare and Company and buy a book. Preferably a book about Paris. Then, I'd find a bench, maybe in a park, and read the book. The last time I was in Paris by myself, I bought a book about the liberation of Paris and was sitting on a bench a few steps from the bookshop, and the book described a battle around a monument, the name of which escapes me (across from the Isle de la Cite, I think) and I turned to my left and There It Was. So moving. As are the plaques on the buildings in that part of Paris that say, in French (which I can read passably well but can barely speak) that some "gave his life for France" on some day in August 1944.

After reading the book, or before, I'd go to a cafe. I'd drink wine and do some people watching. I've meet the nicest people in cafes. They can tell I am American, and they tolerate my poor French.

I guess what I am saying is that the best part of being in Paris for me is Being in Paris. I've been in Paris four times and have never been in the Louvre. Tried to go to the Musee d'Orsay at Christmas 3.5 years ago, but it was mobbed. C'est la vie. I'm just happy to get decent pain chocolat and wander around, look at interesting things (although my wife thinks I am a weirdo because I thought La Defense was fascinating), and do the world's best people watching. But, yes, I had a guide book. I once walked through Hemingway's old stomping grounds, because I would love to be an expat and write and hang with friends in cafes, although perhaps with, shall we say, more modern sensibilities. Anyway, this is probably no help, but it makes me think about planning a trip to Paris.